Istanbul: at the crossroads of civilisations (Alumni Tour)

A group of SOAS-Alphawood Alumni went on a nine-day tour of Istanbul in May 2025, which included an overnight stay in Edirne. I was fortunate to be part of this group. Our goal was to explore Istanbul’s rich historical, architectural, and artistic heritage, gaining an understanding of its development. The tour was designed and expertly led by Chiara De Nicolais, co-convenor of the Arts of the Islamic World module. We were also supported by a team from Distant Horizons.

What made this trip so special? I would encourage anyone to consider similar SOAS tours for several reasons. First, it was great fun. Our international group was friendly and enthusiastic. Everyone was eager to learn and share their perspectives and experiences. We may not have travelled together before, however, we quickly found common ground through previous Distant Horizons tours or our academic studies.

The itinerary was chronologically based and thoughtfully planned. This approach made the city's history, art, and architecture accessible and engaging. There was flexibility in moving the schedule around and time to relax. 

We visited several lesser-known locations, in addition to the city’s famous attractions, which offered insights beyond the typical traveller’s experience. The tour design reflected careful consideration of specialist interests, such as textiles, glass, Arts of the Book, architecture, and Ottoman tile work. Some of these sites were outside Sultanahmet and the Old City, giving us a broader appreciation of contemporary Istanbul and Edirne.

Among the many memorable experiences, a few stood out for me in particular:

The Beykoz Glass and Crystal Museum situated in northeastern Istanbul on the Asian side of the Bosphorus.  Opened in 2021, it is housed within the beautifully restored nineteenth-century stables of a former Ottoman official’s mansion.   The museum sits in approximately 90 acres of parkland, a peaceful setting away from the busy, noisy city.

The Sakip Sabanci museum. A private fine arts museum occupying an early twentieth century mansion overlooking the Bosphorus.  The museum includes a permanent collection focused on 500 years of the Arts of the Book and calligraphy, and Ottoman paintings and decorative objects.   We embarked on a two hour cruise back to the Old City from a nearby landing stage.

The Rami Library where, on a private tour, we were shown the conservation team’s work. The library, converted from vast nineteenth-century barracks in 2023 is Turkey’s largest.

The city of Edirne, the second capital city of the Ottoman Empire. It was fantastic to see some of the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan’s masterpiece, the Selimiye Mosque and complex, as well as his impressive Rustem Pasha Caravanserai.

All in all, an extremely enjoyable and memorable tour of one of the world’s greatest cities.  I look forward to returning soon to explore further.